In the realm of fashion and beauty, few moments capture the collective imagination as profoundly as the unveiling of a groundbreaking makeup look. Pat McGrath, hailed by Vogue magazine as the most influential makeup artist in the world, has once again bewitched the industry with her creations for Maison Margiela’s Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture show. More than a week since the show, the internet continues to buzz with excitement, analysis, and endless attempts to replicate the ethereal beauty looks that graced the runway.

McGrath's transformative artistry turned models into living dolls, each a canvas of perfection with porcelain skin, pencil-thin eyebrows, and strikingly shaded eyes, lips, and cheeks. Yet, it was the waxen, glazed complexions that truly stole the show, sparking a frenzy of magazine articles and TikTok tutorials, some amassing millions of views. The allure of these looks lies not just in their visual impact but in the mystery surrounding the techniques and products used to achieve them.

During an Instagram Live session, McGrath and her team recreated one of the Margiela looks, praising the beauty sleuthing and fan recreations while also acknowledging the eerie fascination that kept her awake at night.

The secrecy surrounding the products used to achieve the glistening complexions had reached a fever pitch, fueled by post-show footage of models shedding what appeared to be a second skin. Speculations ran wild, with some believing McGrath used a peel-off mask diluted with water and airbrushed on in layers. Others were convinced that the high-shine effect was created with a product from the professional makeup brand Kryolan called “Liquid Glass,” a theory so compelling that it led to the product selling out and garnering a three-week-long waiting list, despite McGrath's suggestion that it was “amazing,” but not “the real product.”

A spokesperson for Pat McGrath Labs, the beauty brand founded by the makeup artist, seemed to confirm the face mask theory, stating, “Pat McGrath Labs has always been centered around creating products and formulations that have never existed before. Pat and her team had been working on one formula in the lab for some time now… Backstage for Margiela, she combined several products for the show, including face masks (one of which was cucumber) and the perfect amount of water.” This technique was “the most challenging piece of the puzzle,” the spokesperson continued.

“Making sure we could achieve a high-reflective glass finish without tampering with the make-up underneath. That’s where the airbrush came in. We understand that people don’t want to mix a ton of products and buy an airbrush machine. That’s why we will be dropping one product that will give you the perfect glass finish.”

On Instagram Live, McGrath and her team revealed a few of the eight products used to create the airbrushed concoction, including peel-off face masks from Freeman Beauty, Proot, and Que Bella. McGrath’s team sprayed seven to eight layers of the composite mask on each model, a time-intensive process to ensure their glassy skin wouldn’t lose its luster before the show.

Additional secrets from McGrath’s masterclass included achieving the “porcelain foundation” look on light-skinned models by blending her eponymous line’s Sublime Perfection Foundation with white theatrical paint. Before airbrushing, the artists dabbed water-based special effects glue around the corners of models’ lips and noses, both for sealing and extra gloss. The models themselves also played a crucial role in sealing each layer of glass skin, blow-drying their faces in a process that took anywhere from 45 minutes to two hours, McGrath said.

McGrath’s creations are the latest, and most extreme, example of the trend for high-shine, seemingly poreless and flawless complexions with an almost wet-looking sheen. Originally dubbed “glass skin,” the look is thought to have originated in Korea as early as 2013 but didn’t make its way into wider popular culture for another four years, when high-profile beauty influencers began sharing the extensive skincare routines they employed to achieve it. While “glass skin” was all about leaving the face bare but with a glistening sheen, the 2020s “dolphin skin” trend took things to the next level.

Credited to makeup artist Mary Phillips, the aesthetic was not just about optimizing your own skin but also layering color cosmetics with skincare to give a sleek, shiny, dolphin-just-out-the-ocean effect. Achieving it was not for the faint of heart — or the short of time. Creating “dolphin skin” required a multi-step process involving exfoliating the skin before layering on serum, moisturizer, a hydrating mist, liquid highlighter, foundation, more highlighter, then more mist.

Like “glass skin” before it, “dolphin skin” was a sensation on social media, but not everyone was a fan. In 2021, UK-based facialist and skin expert Andy Millward said the look promoted “an unrealistic expectation of what healthy skin should look like,” and added, “the extreme shiny (or) wet look isn’t something we should be striving for.” Not that that stopped 2022’s shiny skin trend, popularized by model Hailey Bieber, which was then dubbed the “glazed donut” look.

Celebrity makeup artist Monika Blunder, whose clients include Gemma Chan, Jessica Alba, Kate Hudson, and Megan Fox, noted that McGrath’s “amazing” airbrushed Margiela looks were not really feasible “for every day.” However, she offered suggestions “to create something similar and more wearable at home.” Prepping the skin perfectly is key — she recommended starting with a face oil before applying a foundation or base, and then skipping powder to keep the shine. “After you’ve done your makeup, you can really bump up the glow by adding another thin layer of oil over the top, or for extra shine that won’t move around as much, my favorite hack is to use a clear balm as a highlighter.”

The trend for high-shine complexions shows no signs of losing its luster for 2024, as evidenced by the legions of McGrath fans flooding social media over the past week. The allure of these looks lies not just in their visual impact but in the promise of a beauty ideal that is both attainable and aspirational. McGrath’s work with Maison Margiela is more than just makeup; it is a statement on the future of beauty, where technology and artistry combine to create looks that are both otherworldly and deeply human.

In a world where beauty standards are constantly evolving, McGrath’s creations serve as a reminder that the pursuit of beauty is a journey of self-expression and innovation. Her ability to push the boundaries of what is possible with makeup inspires not just makeup artists and models but everyone who seeks to express their unique beauty. As we look to the future, it is clear that the intersection of technology and beauty will continue to yield new and exciting trends, and Pat McGrath will undoubtedly remain at the forefront of this creative revolution.

The Maison Margiela Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture show was not just a fashion event; it was a cultural phenomenon that has sparked a global conversation about beauty, identity, and the power of makeup to transform and empower. As we continue to explore and experiment with new beauty trends, let us remember the magic of McGrath’s Margiela looks and the endless possibilities that lie ahead in the world of beauty.