The pulse of American fashion was palpable during New York Fashion Week (NYFW) 2025, which concluded on February 11. This season was marked by significant debuts, high-profile returns, and strategic shake-ups among American designers. It was a week that showcased both the theatrical and the understated, reflecting a dynamic industry in flux.

Major Debuts and Returns

One of the most anticipated events was the return of Calvin Klein under the creative direction of Veronica Leoni. This was the brand's first runway show since Raf Simons' departure in 2018. Leoni's debut collection was a fresh take on the brand, focusing on sleek business casual attire with wide tailoring and billowing silk. "I really tried to explore beauty in the most authentic, clean, fresh, and pure way," Leoni said backstage. The show was attended by past and present Calvin Klein models, including Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, FKA Twigs, and Kendall Jenner, who walked the runway in an ankle-length pinstripe coat dress.

Another highlight was the return of Christopher John Rogers to the New York schedule after a five-year hiatus. His vibrant collection of color-blocked, striped halter dresses, and tasseled button-downs and pants showcased the difficulties and triumphs of maintaining an independent label.

Absences and Industry Reshuffling

Despite the excitement, several major labels and cult favorites were absent from the schedule. Proenza Schouler, Area, and Helmut Lang did not participate following the departure of their creative directors. Heritage brands like Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren skipped the season entirely, while others chose to present their collections overseas or in different locations within the United States. For instance, Willy Chavarria opted to show during Paris' menswear week, and Bode debuted its collection in New Orleans as part of the football- and fashion-centric GQ Bowl.

Theatricality and Wearability

NYFW 2025 saw a mix of theatrical presentations and understated, wearable collections. Marc Jacobs' off-schedule procession featured doll-like models in exaggerated silhouettes, while Christian Siriano showcased automotive-inspired gowns and flashy clubwear. Thom Browne's conceptual closing, which saw besuited models transformed into otherworldly birds, was another standout moment.

On the other hand, Eckhaus Latta presented an "anti-snobbish" collection of leather bombers, cargo pants, and casual asymmetrical dresses. Veronica Leoni's debut for Calvin Klein focused on clean lines and versatile pieces, signaling a return to work order with a modern twist.

Celebrity Presence and Community

Celebrity appearances were scattered throughout the week, adding glamour and attention to key events. At Collina Strada, Ella Emhoff, Dove Cameron, actor Cole Sprouse, and Japanese Breakfast singer Michelle Zauner were in attendance. Christian Siriano's show drew Katie Holmes, Whoopi Goldberg, and Julianne Hough to the front row. The week concluded with high-profile guests at Tory Burch and Thom Browne's shows, including Amanda Seyfried, Martha Stewart, Ciara, Jodie-Turner Smith, Cara Delevingne, Kerry Washington, Queen Latifah, and Adrien Brody.

Challenges and Future Directions

Behind the scenes, designers discussed the challenges facing American fashion. Sergio Hudson highlighted the lack of support for American designers, noting a shift in focus towards European fashion weeks. "There’s a lot of great designers here, and I just feel like they’re being ignored. We have to open up our eyes and see what we have at home," he said.

Politics also cast a shadow over the week, with the industry navigating the impacts of the US-China trade war and new anti-DEI policies. Designers like Prabal Gurung and Christian Siriano used their platforms to call for community and inclusivity, emphasizing the importance of connection and diversity.

New York Fashion Week 2025 provided a snapshot of the current state of American fashion: a blend of high drama and practical elegance, marked by significant changes in the industry. Amid the reshuffling, designers are finding new ways to engage with their audience, focusing on authenticity, wearability, and community. As the fashion world continues to evolve, the resilience and creativity of American designers remain at the forefront.